As a quick update, I am in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala. I passed the navidad in San Cristobal de las Casas, still in Mexico. In San Cristobal, I stayed in a little house that was quite nice for 45 pesos (about $4.5 US). However, they had a little puppy that kept coming into my room and peeing on my things. The unfortunate thing is that I can't tell exactly what has been urinated upon and what is still untouched, due to everything having a bit of funky smell. But that is neither here nor there...

My hidden Mexico begins in the small town of Anguangeo, in the state of Michoacan: Imagine a butterfly. Now imagine millions of them together at the same time. The most impressionable thing is the noise that all their little butterfly wings make when fluttering in virtual unison. The Monarchs migrate to Michoacan to winter every year from Canada and the United States, and it is truly a sight to behold.


From Angangueo we head to Xilitla (Hee-lee-tla), a small town in the rainforest in the state of San Luis Potosi. Sir Edward James, a millionaire Englishman with connections to royalty came to Xilitla in the 1930's to construct a surreal concrete sculpture garden. He spent over five million dollars and 50 years building the edifices, some of which are over 80 feet tall. The likes of Aldoux Huxley and Salvador Dali were his friends, and their influence can be definitely seen: Concrete on acid.

We end hidden Mexico on the beach in Zipolite, in the southern state of Oaxaca. It is dangerous--the name itself means "killing beach" in the indigineous language (Zapotecan, I think). Up until a few years ago, two people per week would drown due to the strong rip tides. Now, however, things are under control, and it has become a favorite of budget travelers. It is also a clothing optional beach: The Mexican lifeguards are all men, and I wonder if the death rate of males has remained steady while drownings of naked females has been considerably reduced?

bye y'all, catch you at the next sunset,


H o m e
S t o r i e s f r o m t h e R o a d
P h o t o A l b u m s
B i k e I n f o
W h o A m I
E m a i l M e

Where Am I?

Current Mileage (from COLO):


Spanish Lessons of the day:

Estas cavaron!

You kick ass!

Culinary Corner (for Dave):

Tortas--simple sandwiches. Can be made with Milanesa (chicken fried steak), choriqueso (Minced sausage and cheese), juevo (egg), or Cubana (everything they got).

Cemites--complex sandwiches native to Puebla. They use a special type of bread and a particular spice that tastes like a mix between cilantro and pepto bismal (but I love it).

Mole--Special sauce. Can be eaten with enchiladas, quesadillas, with chicken, or whatever is handy. There is mole norteno (from the north), mole poblano (from the center), and mole oaxaqueno (from the south). As you move towards southern Mexico, the mole gets richer, and the number of ingredients increase. In mole oaxaquena, there can be around 100 differenct ingredients, including plums, chocolate, raisins, multiple chiles, tortillas, pumpkin seeds...

Tlayudas--Giant tortilla fried in lard and then topped with mole negro and oaxaquen cheese.












Picture Index

Top Center: On the road to Puebla

Middle Left: Indian girl in front of Cathedral in San Cristobal

Middle Center: One of the waterfalls in Sir Edward James sculpture garden in Xilitla

Middle Right: Concrete flower, over six feet tall, in Xilitla

Far right, above: Monarch Butterfly

Far right, below: Hills above Angangueo

Second to bottom: Monarchs fluttering

Bottom: Sunset in Zipolite

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